Rex † 08.26.2002
I dΛnke you for DΞin VΞrtrΛuΞn. In
mΞinΞm HΞrzΞn will you unvΞrgΞsslich
mΞin wΛhrhΛftigΞr King sΞin
I dΛnke you for DΞin VΞrtrΛuΞn. In
mΞinΞm HΞrzΞn will you unvΞrgΞsslich
mΞin wΛhrhΛftigΞr King sΞin
© Himp
I have breakfast with the two American women who are visibly excited about my outfit Cervélo road bike. Apparently, the two athletes only know from television, perhaps a reason why they treat me with such respect. If only they would know that my leg today should be only 50 km ... but even silly 50 km for the SUV-dependent Americans probably a number of impossibility.
The departure of Civita Castellana is on the other side of the mountain - the road that I had yesterday fought their last strength up, I have to go back, fortunately not. rewarded me with a God of the stages-rich serpentine, steep descent, which is surprisingly completely car-free.
The shock runs deep, but evaporates quickly. For soon I reached the wide plain outside Rome and drive to the SS3, a small side road to the highway, which - then one assured me - should remain relatively spared from the daily madness jam to and from Rome.
It takes a solid hour, until, in a village on a major road, turn finally get passable asphalt under the tires - but I find myself in a never-ending stream of stinking cans again greet Rome can!
It must be somewhere right here! Rome is here somewhere!, I think, than the road sometime back as a highway looks like the lanes are divided, left and right grow up noise barriers to be me overtaking cars faster and faster and all that is slowly no longer looks like a rural Italian idyll, but rather according to European urban gridlock.
... and at one time I'm in Rome! Middle of it! Unprepared no sign, no entrance, no nothing, I'll shoot out of the tunnel from the left and right, up and down roads coming into my SS3 to lead, buses, vans, army of scooters and cars galore come to mind once on the lanes, all honking, all gestures, all pushing and pushing and that which is now Rome! AchdumeineGüte!, I think quickly and can not even think as fast as I have to cope with the Babylonian traffic chaos.
As calm as it is with him, not me standing on pedals I have to fight my way through the chaos -.. And have no idea where I am at all.
road markings are, well, instructions on how to use the available asphalt . But the Government has of course not counted on the cleverness of the car, bus and Scooterfharer, because the roads are much too wide, as that could be just the two ride side by side. No, the Italians, the available width of the road uses much more efficient, and travels to fourth in a row on two tracks.
So I fight my way about half an hour through the honking, deafening chaos of the metropolis, 'm still very excited about the fact that I - as an orderly and law-abiding German, moreover, the son of a police officer - do not see an accident when I reach the Tiber.
I have the road to which I have on a Google-expression of it, but I'm so overwhelmed by the impressions here that refuses my brain, I thought to be associated with operations.
I am pleased once again had a super intuitive, sending Vittorio, the owner of my studio, a text message that I would soon be there, and move on my road bike clattering hucke the wing, this historic stone slopes - now totally fascinating - City.
Italians are crazy racing. I know - not for nothing is the Giro d'Italia to boot people as sacred. While experiencing the Italian road bike sports a similarly deep crisis as here in Germany - but less for the reasons that this country an ARD has moved to phase out all racing activities, but rather on a completely ruined youth system that has worn out his driver even before these are professionals in general.
I cross streets quaint. Wow, I think me and can not close my mouth out of sheer fascination - this is Rome? I almost feel like in this small, picturesque villages, a documentary on arte culinary delights of the most remote regions of Europe - but not as central Rome.
At last - well, let's say, not 45 minutes later than agreed - Vittorio get to the Campo di Fiori, greets me exuberant and nods approvingly at me: "Did you ride your bike in Rome with"
He closes on the first floor of a small apartment in the house. A two-room apartment, very smart, a galley kitchen - the refrigerator is full - a shower room, a futon and a Seating area. All the fun for 100 € the night.
None 2 hours later I'm back on the road. Amazing that there are up to the Colosseum than 2 kilometers. It is afternoon, actually I will wait until tomorrow to use my day off for a sweeping blow through Rome, but it is burning inside me. I will see it! Will, Will!
The Colosseum me out of my shoes. It is bigger, more beautiful, more impressive than I ever imagined. It is touching, poignant. If one of the flanks This stadium looks up, one can only wonder say "Ahhh." Nothing more.
I remember as I sat back in the fifth grade in school and in history class literally had swallowed all that concerned the ancient Romans. Romulus and Remus, the founding myth of this city, climb to the greatest power in the world, the conquest, the emperor and Tribune, the limit and eventually the demise of the republic, the empire fragmented, merged into East and West Rome.
begins As the sun slowly go down, I'll be on my way home. Not without some goodies in the Carrefour supermarket for a hearty pasta shop.
morning, I know, as I prefer to 22 clock the thin blanket over me and try to sleep despite the noise, tomorrow I will run my feet sore and take everything what I can offer this great city here .
is -?. at least initially after a turn, unfortunately, only sweet breakfast I'm going back to the big highway that will carry me to Rome, I will achieve still not sure.
I kept asking. This time, two Carabinieri, how do I get the best for Roma: They send me back on the highway. Okay, I think me, if need be.
The highway is fenced in by about 1.20 meters high concrete walls. Each direction of travel for himself, two lanes in each direction and relatively quiet market. outdated now and a truck rumbling me, otherwise I can get free and of good character. Spoleto is my first goal - and although the wind is slow - first from the side, later coming from the front - I have the best mood.
spectacular curls the Lanmdschaft next to me on and off, villages, sometimes elegant, sometimes even adventurous built into the rock, only accessible by narrow, steep streets, castles, palaces, monasteries, wineries - I regret that I betonerne the dragon, this modern highway only keeps them here to look even beyond the high-tech ways to see, to be really close, here what I can only admire from afar breathlessly: idyllic, beautiful space, perfect world.
appear before me at the first mountains, which must soon be Spoleto, I think the first car next to me honks. Screw you, I think, lick me: Your Carabinieri, it allows me!
internal shocks me back my sunglasses, which I preserved to me and wonder why my heart rate reached at once the 200 limit and I feel this strange pull in the throat: Danger! And before me, the next truck, which is only 30 cm next to me with 100 km / h rushing past me frightened to death again, I shoot even out of the tunnel.
I sit in the sun, enjoy ice cold iced tea - the liquid in bottles has exceeded my thanks to sunlight, shortly after leaving the 40-degree mark - eat two panini and type some text message to the loved ones at home.
verabsschiede I am soon back in Spoleto, waving the back of the castle, and make me into the increase, of which one had told me at the hotel in Foligno: We would be long, very long and very steep to be. Lots of traffic. Much risk. Well look, let's see.
Well. And then, then it comes: the rise. Significantly, it attracts, it goes up. Before me, I'll look at them closely, are nearly 2,000 meters ramp. Straight, ascending, no curvature, nothing - only gradient upward. And then, as above, just before the towering wall of green, forested mountain-grown, as it bends to the right.
I'm right. I shall drop me up the climb. I leave a trail dripping sweat, a trail of blood, a tear trace precious salt.
But then you hear the mountain below me. Just like that. The road becomes Bridge. Seamless, you hardly notice it. At first, anyway. But then, when the hillside behind and below me ever further away, and I begin to understand that this bridge spans here in at least 100 meters above a deep gorge, reach me gusts to force pull nasty winds on my bike and me to the highest concentration - and the fans continue to take me to get over 100 mph in their tricked-out Fiat at least not increased consideration.
Eventually I manage.
I sit down to a few gentlemen to discuss the proposed in the midday heat, look at the map to see where I am and drink two Lipton iced tea away just like that, I make myself a huge Panino with Parma and mozzarella - in the climb, I hardly noticed how much I had already sent my stomach cramping warning: Hardly imagine what a Bonking would have done!
says about this city in my travel companion Goethe:
Behind Terni receives me start again a mountain range that I However, after a brief increase and overcome more cautious descent.
It goes through some small villages. The road gets narrower and narrower, also makes the surface more and more to be desired. Apparently, the municipalities or the state for the mountain passes more money than the flat sections. So I have time after time away from my - actually comfortable width - shoulder and go at times almost entirely in the middle of the road.
It goes uphill again at some point, which is to get over, because the increase is hardly the question value. But the headwind, which now gets caught in my wheel on my body and my helmet, is preparing to rob me of the nerve.
Before I can enjoy this view, I'm fighting myself a few kilometers up an ever increasing absurd, ever closer, small country road. I look up, I see more and more winding, with each part of the 200 year-old passer-by, I overtake, whose smile is wider. You know the good, I'm apparently not the first racing cyclist who is doing this slope here.
top, I pass through a gate of thick stones. But the road does not on the plane. On the contrary, with each meter, which I am opposed to the center of this place the gradient seems to be steeper. Absurd, my muscles groaning. But there is no answer: no more energy for the brain. Stupid do the legs, which was applied to them at the foot of the mountain.
some point I'm up. Stand there and see what is Narni: a dream city. One, like those from "Lord of the Rings." Adventurous carved into the rock, buildings cling to the hillside. Far below, in the valley since ironed, zero slope, of the modern smooth, the highway winds through the woods. But up here I breathe Italy. I see history - because I know I just know that every stone - even those elaborately carved from a block of stone bench on which I have a break enjoy - historically.
Everything is so beautiful here, to look so beautiful. Italy, I finally understand why they are all so passionate about this country, its beauty, this wilderness - that nature. Or is it because every stone away from the old Roman trade route Via Flaminia, where I reel off my miles for some miles, breathes really history?
I stand for a while and enjoy the view Not to good to be true, I think, and forget it it also determines the disadvantages of living up here: everyone going to the Supermarket is a 30 minute drive to Terni, every minute of free time is here again show running for delighted tourists - what I as a traveler passing through lovely idyll, may be annoying to residents everyday.
I look around me, as I leave the city - high above I go on the narrow ridge of the mountain, on whose back this old city is built. And I look forward in eager anticipation: Sure it's steep and fast downhill as soon as I have come earlier steep uphill and absurd.
nil. Mile after mile, the road winds high on the back of the mountain. Almost an hour I curve around - but realize that it steadily downhill. But as disappointing slowly that I hardly ever break through the 40 mark.
The road is little traveled. They probably all take the highway. I want it to be right. I have time to look around me have to step thanks to the slight downward trend of the road have low and can finally relax on the bike.
More and more I fall in Raddepression. What half an hour ago could still evoke the highest ecstasy rebounds, now in my jaded mood: I can not anymore.
The road leaves me back to the Mind. This is not a coating, which are ancient mosaics, they have just sloppily put back together. Each groove, every little hole caused me pain in the butt, especially the wrists.
Then, coming as it does, the departure. Briefly catapulted me to 55 mph - I still wonder how my Carbon this Schütteltour abkann ever, and already it is over.
I kick and kick and kick me in hot trance. Need only smile about the signs that line the avenue, and the "town center" tell where this is not even a city, nothing, only fields and trees, the plane and this shimmering heat to me all the water from the veins draws. It deafened in my head cool, I need cooling. My travel companion Goethe was driving on the very same road as before:
But from Rome, I may now have yet imagined. I drag myself along the road. In my cycling shoes prevailing conditions such as short after the Big Bang, I think to myself, woe to the receptionist who has to sell the same to me my room: I stink like a madman determined after the battle.
misery goes along the road, go straight. In the end - nothing. Absolutely not. No goal in sight, no fixed point, not a place where I could say: Since, I have to go! Is still far away, but I can see it!
some point, I am there. Eventually I see the city on the hill behind their strong walls. Above sits a church. Towering above homes. And up there, I know there is somewhere above a hotel in which I can take a shower immediately.
hole from the minibar I happy and satisfied an ice cold beer. Make myself comfortable in my really big, knight-like Bedroom and rub cream into my legs: for they have really done a great job today.
Then I nod off briefly, but arouses violent stomach growling me. I dress and look for the sometimes only 2 yards out after a narrow alleys Ristorante.
Here I sit, let me bring a pint of excellent Umbrian house wine and order a pizza with wagenradgroße centimeter-thick layers of fresh arugula and Parma ham.
It turns out that the two are from my second favorite city in the U.S., from Seattle. And when they ask me where I was then, and I would drive home here so I also tell them that I finished in her hometown of Seattle a year ago my tour through Canada.
Rochelle and Melinda are concerned, when I told them the news of the day tell - because France has a monster downpour today called for 15, 20 deaths. A single heavy rain, that's incredible, I say.
The sun goes down, we stroll back to the hotel, because as it turns out, the relay is the only house in order. We are in the great hall, the foyer is now, I say goodbye to the Internet corner and write my sweet a love email, I too heavy, the creaking wooden stairs to climb up in my boudoir.
runs the TV, the stage of the Tour de Suisse, I'm still a Nastro Azzuro on and put your feet up. Done for today, I congratulate myself and cheers to my bike.
I turn around, puffing gleefully into bed and hold it as the Lord Privy Councillor of Weimar .